Welcome to the Sumo11 Main Board
Step-by-Step Assembly guide

There are two boards that make the complete Sumo11 controller. The first is the main board that carries the 68HC11 micro-controller and can be used as a simple controller by itself, the second is the S11-HB expansion board that stacks on top of the first board making it function as a Handyboard and is completely Interactive C compatible.

There are several stages to building the complete Sumo11 board, we'll begin with the main board. If you are not an experienced solderer please read through the Soldering Tutorial before preceding with this project. Also certain components have special characteristics that need to be observed. These components have a clickable link in the "Components Needed" area that will take you to a page describing its characteristics.

Tools needed:
Soldering iron
Solder
Side dikes (lead snips)
Wire strippers
Needle nose pliers
Computer, preferably pre-XP
Optional:
Digital Multi-Meter (DMM)
Bench Vice
Magnifying Glass

**************************************
Stage One - Power Supply & Power Monitor
**************************************
Components Needed:
1 - 1K Ohm Resistor (brn blk red gld) .........R1
1 - 0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor (104) ...............C1
1 - 0.001uF Ceramic Capacitor (102) ...........C2
1 - Red LED ..................................................Low Batt
2 - Micro Push Button Switches ...................RESET & PRGM
1 - DS1233 Voltage Monitor ........................DS1233
1 - 330uF or 470uF Electrolytic Capacitor ..C3
1 - LM7805 Voltage Regulator ...................V-Reg
2 - DPST Slide Switch ..................................SW-1 (a&b)
1 - 3 position Terminal connector ................PWR
1 - 9v Battery Clip
1 - 4 AA Battery Pack

Always remember to start with the smaller components; it's harder to get them in if the larger components are in the way. The board is marked with labels for easy location of parts placement. Snip off the excess leads as you go.

a) Solder the 1k ohm resistor in at the location marked R1 on the board.

b) Solder the 0.1uF cap in at C1. There should be three of these together on a piece of tape reel, tear one off for C1.

c) Solder the 0.001uF cap in at C2. This capacitor should be by itself in the package, it looks like the ones above but has a different value.

d) The Red LED gets soldered in at the place marked 'Low Batt', (LED's are Polarized, this means they only work if they are inserted the right way. Be sure to put the (-) short lead of the LED toward the center of the board for this one).

e) Solder both of the small push-button switches in at the locations marked RESET & PRGM

f) Solder the DS1233 power monitor in at the location marked DS1233. Pay attention to the arch printed on the board, the components rounded side goes toward the arch.

g) Solder the 330uF or 470uF (which ever came in your kit) cap in at C3 (this cap is polarized, one side of the cap will be marked as the negative side)

h) Solder the LM7805 regulator in at V-Reg. I recommend that you trim the sides of the leads so that the regulator can be pushed in closer to the board.

i) Now solder the two SPST slide switches in at SW-1. Be sure to trim the switches leads down fairly close to the board.

j) Finally, solder the green 3 position terminal connector in on the bottom side of the board with the openings facing inwards.
When you're finished your board should look like this.

Now take the black lead of the 9-volt battery clip and the black lead of the AA pack and twist them together. Put some solder on the bare ends where you twisted them together, on the bare end of the red lead of the 9v clip and on the end of the AA pack red wire lead. Secure the red 9-volt lead into the terminal hole marked Main PWR, secure the Black pair into the middle hole marked NEG, and secure the AA pack red wire to the terminal hole marked MTR/SRV PWR as shown.

You are now ready for the first test.
Connect the 9-volt battery to the clip, be sure to observe polarity, and switch the power on. You should see the Red LED come on and then go right back off. This means your battery is good and the board is getting power. If the LED stays on, or does not light at all then your battery is weak and needs to be replaced. Pressing the RESET button should cause the LED to come on showing that the reset circuit is functioning properly. Advanced test: Place a voltage meter at the + side of C1 as shown below, your meter should read somewhere close to 5 volts.

This stage is complete, switch off the power, remove the 9-volt battery and move on to Stage Two.